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| Eve Arnold
OBE Hon FRPS 1912 - 2012 An Appreciation by
John Cogan |
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It is 1950 and The United States of America
are somewhat less than united. Segregation between Black and
White is still the norm and the Senator for
Wisconsin
makes a speech in which he claims to have the names of spies and
communists employed by the State Department. In Harlem a petite,
38 year old Jewish housewife of Russian extraction takes her
Rolleiflex to a fashion show in Black Harlem. A renowned (within
her family circle) baker of cakes and biscuits, the mother of a
young son (Francis), she runs a home in Long Island but working
for a photographic processor and printer has given her the urge to
take her own photographs. Now, backstage at the Fashion in
Harlem show, she captures on film the exotic and shimmering
Charlotte Stribling, better known to her many fans as “Fabulous”.
The Black model looks surprised to be photographed, especially as
the situation is so “unflattering”. Behind “Fabulous” stands a
New York policeman resting his right foot on a water pipe! |
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All in all, the petite housewife from
Long Island shoots 22 “official” rolls of 120 film on 5 assignments
in 1950. Eve Arnold has arrived! In 1951 she exposes 32 rolls of
120 on a photo essay about Migrant Labour. A further 23 rolls are
shot on a Christmas Story. For the film company, 20th
Century, she photographs José Ferrer and Gloria Swanson, her first
contact with cinema stars of the day. The diminutive Arnold will
come to be one of the favoured photographers of the glitterati. In
the 1960s, the film director John Huston commissioned Norman
Parkinson to photograph his teenage daughter. Anjelica Huston
arrived for the session caked in makeup and her father’s immediate
reaction was to send for Eve Arnold who calmly and diplomatically
sorts the matter out to everyone’s satisfaction. Robert Capa
assessed her style as being somewhere between Marlene Dietrich’s
legs and the hard lives of dispossessed migrant workers.
Yet, celebrities were but a small part of her portfolio. In a
recent obituary someone claimed that it was only her work with
Marilyn Monroe that had given Arnold a sort of vicarious glamour and
ephemeral fame. Arnold, herself, might have laughed at this. Her
sense of humour was self-deprecating and gentle yet her adherence to
truth absolute. |

Eve Arnold 1997 Photograph by Jane
Bown for the Observer |
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During the premier of
Spike Lee’s film biography of Malcolm X,
Arnold’s
photographs of him were used to dress the cinema. Several Black
Muslims sought out Arnold and told her how grateful they were that
she’d “...made Malcolm look cool!” That, she said, was easy as he
was the personification of “Cool”. What annoyed her though was the
refusal of the Black Muslims to acknowledge that they had made
common cause with George Lincoln Rockwell and the American Nazi
Party in 1961. It never happened, they claimed. The evidence was
there in her photographs and no amount of intimidation would make
her compromise.
How much Eve Arnold faced danger would be
hard to say. She was verbally and physically intimidated many
times. Working on the Malcolm X assignment she was reliant upon
whichever way the wind blew and was frequently threatened
over the telephone by White Supremacists. She faced the same sort
of problems when on assignment to photograph the Klu Klux Clan.
Deftly weaving her way between the various factions she captured the
essence of the movement whilst the Grand Imperial Wizard ranted
against various groups in society including women and Jews.
In 1954 Eve Arnold photographed mental
patients in a Haitian asylum where tranquilisers from a
US
company were being tested. The previous year she had joined Magnum
along with the Co-operative’s other first woman photographer: Inge
Morath. Neither claimed the honour of being first instead insisting
they had both joined at the same time. While the tall and stately
Morath may have epitomised international glamour Eve Arnold soon
became the “mother figure” amongst the growing number of idealistic
and, at times, egocentric male photographers. |
Bar
Girl in a brothel in the
red light district, Havana, Cuba, 1954
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It was through the good offices of the other
Magnum photographers that she claims to have learned her trade.
Surrounded by such skilled practitioners as Bert Glinn and Elliot
Erwitt, Marc Riboud and Dennis Stock it was, she later said,
impossible not to learn. Her working principle was always to learn
while doing and to constantly do and so learn.
By 1954 Eve Arnold started using a 35 mm
camera for most of her work; both a Leica and a Pentax. It was in
that year that her assignment on the Haitian asylum was followed by
an essay on the prostitutes of pre-Castro
Cuba. From this series of 72x35mm and 460x120 images one stands out
for its composition but more importantly its humanity and pathos: a
young prostitute slumped across a bar in Havana with the empty beer
bottle just out of reach. The desperation and feeling of despair is
there on her face.
1954 was also the year she photographed
Senator Joe McCarthy, the Senator for
Wisconsin. The apportioning of assignments by the Magnum hierarchy
says much for their understanding of the qualities of their
photographers. |
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Whilst Eve Arnold’s tact, diplomacy and outright courage along with
her ability to reach the heart of a subject, her affinity with
people no matter what their background led to her being assigned
some of the more unpleasant jobs short of front-line war
photography. Arnold was also given many of the domestic and tender
assignments; Jackie Kennedy welcomed her to the White House to
photograph the Kennedy children.
More and more Eve Arnold came to
Britain and worked on assignments here. She began working for
The Sunday Times Magazine capturing the essence of British life
from the formal women members of an archery club to Margot Fonteyn
and her new Russian partner Rudolf Nureyev, Photo-essays on
Cheltenham Ladies College and Wycombe Abbey Girls’ School (where she
used a mixture of colour and Tri-X), politicians such as the
Conservative Minister Reginald Maudling) and the Church of England
for which assignment she used 82 rolls of 35 mm colour film). Many
of her portraits were still on Tri-X such as the 1964 shoot for
Vogue of the actor Alan Bates. Then it was back to American for
a 13 roll shoot on Andy Warhol, 24 rolls on Senator Barry Goldwater
and a mere 3 rolls on Robert Kennedy. Sandwiched amongst all this
she completed more assignments for the Sunday Times on the
Royal Society, Fringe Religions in the USA and “Negro Aristocracy”. |
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Aged 80 she took one of her final “public”
assignments for The Sunday Times photographing John Major in
Downing Street
in November and December of 1992. The travel and intensity of her
long working life had taken its toll. She had started working in an
Estate Agents’ office during the Second World War leaving in 1943 to
work for the photographic printer. She had covered assignments that
might have balked the most hardened of souls (the training of Black
Civil Rights workers to resist the treatment meted out to them by
White Supremacists being just one). She had become the confident of
the famous (Joan Crawford in her later life; Marilyn Monroe; Marlene
Dietrich and even Mrs Khrushchev being but a few). There had been
times when her quiet, sharp presence had captured the essence of a
person or a situation (the telling image of Richard Burton and
Elizabeth Taylor while the former was filming Becket and
there on the table a packet of Burton’s favourite sausages
Taylor
would cook for him for his supper).
A life-long friend, Anjelica Huston, visited
her in the
London
care home she lived in towards the end of her life. Unable to hold
a camera Eve Arnold read and read (Russian classics mainly) and
continued to observe life as she had always done. Her clear eyes
and sharp instincts had not left her only the physical ability to
develop the ideas that buzzed around inside her head. Many of Eve
Arnold’s assignments had become stories in pictures though her skill
as a writer was formidable. Her patience, humour and ability to
empathise with her subject allowed her to go where few others either
dared or were able. One of the first American photographers to have
access to both China and Russia and one of the first photographers
allowed into the world of Arab women for her study of “Women behind
the veil” she became a benchmark for concerned and investigative
photographers. Though never allowed to “go to war” as one of her
heroines (Lee Miller) had done, she nevertheless proved herself in
ways that Miller never could or did. No matter how important a
photographer Miller was she never achieved the range or depth of
work of Arnold. If there were to be one photographer regardless of
gender whom one should emulate as a exemplar for their rapport with
their subject; their dedication to the humanity of the people they
met regardless of colour or belief it would be Eve Arnold, the quiet
and gentle little housewife from Long Island.
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Eve Arnold on the set of "Becket" 1963
In her own words in an interview for the
BBC in 2002:
“You want to go as
deeply into them (her subjects) as people as you can. But
usually what happens, if you’re careful with people and if you
respect their privacy, they will offer part of themselves that you
can use and that is the big secret. It has to do with the
relationship of the photographer to the subject.”
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All
images copyright © Eve Arnold/Magnum unless otherwise stated |
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